SPFW N51 presents the Sankofa Project to support racialized entrepreneurs
The SPFW N51 and the IN-MOD Institute presented the Sankofa Project, co-author of the Blacks in Fashion movement and the social innovation startup VAMO (Vetro Afro Indigenous in Fashion), to support racialized entrepreneurs.
The initiative aims to promote inclusion in Brazilian fashion and give visibility and support to racialized entrepreneurs.
In the Sankofa project, eight selected brands participate in three editions of São Paulo Fashion Week, receive mentoring and monitoring from lawyers, publicists, accountants and psychologists, and the advice of a “godmother” – a veteran brand consecrated at the SPFW:
Ateliê Mão de Mãe (Gustavo Silvestre, Projeto Ponto Firme)
Az Marias (Isaac Silva)
Meninos Rei (João Pimenta)
Mile Lab (Juliana Jabour)
Naya Violeta (Apartment 03)
Santa Resistência (Angela Brito)
Silvério (Vitorino Campos)
Ta Studios (Patricia Viera)
The initiative’s support strategy is created from the individual shortcomings and needs of each label.
“It’s more of a school than an exhibition stage,” explains Natasha Soares, co-founder of Pretos na Moda, for Vogue.
“In the African tradition of the Acã people, Sankofa is an ideogram represented by a bird with its head turned backwards, or by two curved lines that form a heart. For the writer, teacher, and human rights activist of the black population, Abdias do Nascimento, its meaning is: ‘return to the past to resignify the present and build the future.”
https://fashionlabelbrasil.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Projeto-Sankofa-SPFW-51.001.jpeg7001000abehttps://fashionlabelbrasil.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/flb-logo.pngabe2021-07-09 17:38:012021-08-24 15:22:16SPFW N51 PRESENTS AND SUPPORTS THE SANKOFA PROJECT
Neriage’s new Summer 2022 collection harmonizes the idea of breakage and fluidity
Neriage presented the new 2022 Sonar Summer collection at SPFW N51.
“This is the first collection (or story, as I like to call it), which does not talk about people, relationships or movements. I thought it wouldn’t make sense to talk about something other than the feeling of longing and the intimacy we develop with the objects and noises around us, or even the freedom we invent by dancing in our house and running in our minds.”
The Sonar chapter reimagines classic pieces in shapes and colors that harmonize the ideas of breakage and fluidity.
“I think that the dreams and these sensations are actually what we have closest to reality.”
The Sonar collection features shoes developed in partnership with Bluebird Shoes and pieces emblazoned with works by artist Gabriella Garcia, invited in this edition.
The details of cross-stitching, buttons and antique trims portray the sense of nostalgia throughout the process. Twisted pleats are also present and drapes on opposite sides. The volume introduced in some pieces, as well as the aged colors refer to the active imagination of the present past.
“‘I learned to like flowers as much as geological faults,’ excerpt from the feature film ‘I travel because I need it, I return because I love you,’ by Marcelo Gomes and Karim Ainouz, 2009.”
You can watch the show in full on SPFW’s Youtube channel
The Boléia collection depicts the Vernacular concept and essence
Misci presented the new Boléia collection at SPFW N51, “to discuss what is ours by essence from the Vernacular perspective.”
The brand explored a new perspective of the Vernacular concept: a collection inspired by truck rides.
“In this season’s presentation, Misci will materialize through the design approach, the dreams and perspectives of those who leave their homes in search of their dreams.”
The Boléia collection expresses the famous phrases of Brazilian popular culture in the prints, textures, and colors of jacquard in national raw material, such as organic cotton from Paraíba and silk.
“A pocket in front of the top is vernacular design – an affective memory rescue when remembering our mothers and grandmothers, who kept their money in their bras.” “It’s simple, but a strong image of many Brazilian women.”
“I grew up and was raised on the edge of the federal highway, in a cabaret that my family owned. I remember when I was arguing with my grandmother. I’d go to the side of the road to hitchhike. She would come running after me so I would come home,” “It is an exciting collection, because I celebrate the women of my life. I was raised by them and it’s been a year and three months since I last visited them because of the pandemic,” said designer Airon Martin for Elle magazine, “inspiration comes from his childhood.”
Misci saw in the culture and roots of Brazil the potential for the construction of three new narratives for the season: Misci + Tiê, Therpol and the sustainable fashion and Óticas Ventura – made in Brazil.
The first collab reveals the Brazilian fashion of Misci and the cachaça Prata da Tiê, to resignify trivialized terms of our language.
The second collaboration is the slipper developed by Therpol, thermoplastic based on natural rubber – biorenewable source of raw material that allows the production of rubber artifacts and that uses the same injection system of the production of plastic parts.
And in the last story, three models of glasses created from a re-reading of a classic model of Ótica Ventura.
“An award-winning silver cachaça and a 100% sustainable sandal are some of the stories that will be told exclusively at this time.”
https://fashionlabelbrasil.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/misci_1-1.png644920abehttps://fashionlabelbrasil.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/flb-logo.pngabe2021-07-09 17:26:492021-08-24 15:22:16Misci presented its new collection on The SPFW N51
Flavia Aranha exhibited the new collection at SPFW N51 to celebrate the theme of regeneration
Flavia Aranha presented the film-collection Sopro, alongside the musician and producer Betão Aguiar, to close out the São Paulo Fashion Week N51 and celebrate regeneration as the future of sustainable fashion. On Sunday, the 27th, the stylist was invited to a sustainability round table, a chat about building a sustainable brand.
The collection reused the waste destined to the brand’s fabric bank to design it from a new chapter. “I enjoyed seeing the brand in this new place. Gathering pieces is gathering memories. There’s something simple about it,” she told Elle magazine.
The brand expresses sustainability and conscious development in the reuse of the studio patches with patchwork technique, in partnership with the Artisans of Muquém (Goiás) and Artisans of Maciel (Minas Gerais).
The collection features clothes in cotton, linen, silk and natural and organic wool, animal accessories, created in partnership with the brand Arqvo, whistle necklaces of the artisan from Espírito Santo, Maurílio Coelho and magnifying glass necklaces. Also, the tapestry pieces should be highlighted, handmade by women of the Lagoa do Carro (Pernambuco) Tapestry Association, using Merino Wool yarns from the partners of the Fios da Fazenda (Rio Grande do Sul) brand and then sewn by the FA team. The slippers in Taboa were made by the Association of Women Artisans of Guapiara Arte Vida and finished with patchwork of the fabrics used in the show.
The colors and dyeing were created in copper cauldrons from simple materials, leftover food – onion husks, avocado seed, black rice broth and beans, Creole corn straw, catuaba – to recreate the tones of the sky.
“Mother earth smiles and celebrates the care and love of wise women who come from time to time to rescue ancestral teachings, combined with the techniques of the future, print, document, and announce a new time.”
You can watch the show in full on SPFW’s Youtube channel
“This film is a utopian daydream in dystopian times. A sensory and timeless outlook at the life that passes through us. The camera stands like the air: floats, levels, runs. It records the body, skin, tissue of these women who inhabit our clothes,” completes Flavia Aranha.
You can watch the show in full on SPFW’s Youtube channel
Terra de Gigantes reveals the knowledge and practices of the masters of Ceará’s culture.
On Wednesday, June 23rd, Ronaldo Fraga opened the 51st edition of São Paulo Fashion Week, via streaming, and presented the Terra de Gigantes collection.
The collection expresses the culture of the Cariri region in Ceará, from where Ronaldo inherited the playful innocence of master craftsmen such as Espedito Seleiro and Françuli. The collection is more than just fashion, it is an affectionate record of the cultural resistance of the Brazilian people.
“In Terra de Gigantes, I convey the typical miscegenation of the region, of the children who are the fruit of the most varied mixtures: Kariri Indians, slaves, Africans of Muslim origin, new Christians and Jews who were fleeing the Spanish and Portuguese Inquisitions. This mixture is also the basis of all Brazilian people,” says the stylist.
The new collection features a single 100% linen fabric base, a lot of embroidery and a few prints, as well as an explosion of colors to represent the multicolored Cariri region in Ceará.
The result of the work developed by Ronaldo Fraga along with the students and professionals of Senac Ceará, the collection Terra de Gigantes portrays the Organic Museums and the Masters of the Cariri culture, strengthening the authorial fashion and the region’s cultural aspects.
“The Organic Museums launched in 2018, a project developed by Sesc Ceará in partnership with the Casa Grande Foundation, allows for direct contact with the master himself, his traditions, family and stories. The houses and workshops of the artisans are open to the public, displaying memories, affections, photographs, clothing, objects and everything that permeates the daily lives of those who transmit popular knowledge in the most diverse forms of art.”
You can watch the entire fashion show on SPFW’s Youtube channel.
On Vogue’s Instagram
“I’m inviting people to dive in the Cariri region with me. I often say that if the Northeastern part of the country is the great amalgam of Brazilian culture, then Cariri is the epicenter,” says @fragaronaldo about his collection that opens the 51st fashion week of São Paulo, which the model @suyane.moreira_ wears in the photos above. A deep lover of Brazil, Ronaldo found the inspiration to create his linen pieces in the colors of the region’s popular culture. Blends such as blue and red, and green and turquoise take the place of the brand’s characteristic prints. “For me, there is no other place with such a sophisticated relationship with tones of color. That’s what I wanted to explore,” he says. The political message, always present in his creations, was not left out in this collection. “During this time that we’re living in, with the country under rubble, the only door that can save us to reinvent this place is culture,” he adds. (Via @alicecoy; photos: @augustopessoa.inti). Footwear from Terra de Gigantes collection developed by @virginiabarros_.
Terra de Gigantes titles the show of @fragaronaldo, which opens the #SPFWN51. Poetic and political as usual, this new collection is part of the roots and Northeastern ancestry of the Cariri people, which unites devotion to Father Cicero, the dryness of the barren land and the traditional artisan manufacturer of the region of Juazeiro do Norte. Suyane Moreira, actress and former model from Ceará, completes the exciting video walking through the streets of colorful houses that inspire the bright variety of colors of the linen pieces. Loose dresses and garments create a counterpoint to the use of hot pants with chastity belts. The duality between sensuality – freedom – and imprisonment becomes the script that permeates the aesthetic construction of the decorations and embroidery in the pieces. The faith and strength of the Northeastern people inspires us, bringing us back into the present. After all, in chaotic times like these, the communion, celebration and human warmth have never been so important. With the mastery of geniuses such as Ronaldo, the presentation ends with a black tunic, the cassock of Padim Ciço, or the mourning over more than 500,000 lost lives. (Photos: Augusto Pessoa)
The designer @fragaronaldo went to the Cariri region to create the collection Terra de Gigantes, which opened the N51 season of @spfw. He brought the playful innocence of master craftsmen, such as Espedito Seleiro and Françuli, translated into linen pieces with a lot of embroidery and an explosion of colors. More than fashion, the collection is an affectionate record of the cultural resistance of the Brazilian people.
https://fashionlabelbrasil.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Ronaldo-Fraga-SPFW-51-08.jpg7001000abehttps://fashionlabelbrasil.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/flb-logo.pngabe2021-06-27 23:05:162021-08-24 15:22:17RONALDO FRAGA OPENED SPFW N51 AND PRESENTED THE TERRA DE GIGANTES COLLECTION
The 2022 Spring-Summer collection translates a phase of reflection into our evolutionary process
Lilly Sarti presented her 2022 Spring-Summer collection on the first day of SPFW N51, on Wednesday, June 23rd.
“When I started creating the 2022 Spring-Summer collection, I was in a phase of reflection, thinking about our evolutionary process as human beings who have a journey on Earth and whose history in the universe is thousands of years old,” says creative director Lilly Sarti.
The collection promotes three stories: capsule “Perception of the Self,” capsule “Reflection of Being” and capsule “Dimension of the Sacred.”
The first story, “Perception of the Self”, brings the jacquard Stella in natural fibers and recycled yarns from PET bottles, gabardine and tricoline, Eden cotton to represent nature, knits with crochet finishes, jeans mosaic and crepe. Also, in the color chart, the capsule presents earthy tones that are characteristic to the brand and cool colors, such as ocean blue, jeans, off-white, and natural tones.
The second capsule, “Reflection of Being”, reveals the Labyrinth print in black and red dahlia, “the feeling of being lost, but in search of an exit,” the lastex, applied in detail to accentuate the cleavage area or create points of attention, the jeans Nero dress and the Renata dress. In the color chart, night blue, sandalwood pink, sage green, dahlia red, calendula, and solar yellow.
The third part of the collection features round low heels, a typical shape from the 80’s, metal trapezoid jumps, flatforms, and an elegant silhouette in natural raw materials such as linen cambric, ramie and cotton gauze.
The maze print in light tones expresses the idea that guides the entire collection, “the transition from the Pisces Age to Aquarius arises in a literal way, in minnows embroidered innocently and irregularly, in blackberry and ocean blue on fabric of neutral tone, and poetically with cosmic embroidery.”
“It all starts when we think about who we are, where we come from, where we’re going, and why we’re here. We can think of cleaner colors, materials and shapes, such as a blank piece of paper that will be the origin of our history.”
You can watch the show in full on SPFW’s Youtube channel
Lilly Sarti created the 2022 Summer collection of @lillysartibrand thinking about our evolutionary process as human beings. The idea took the form of elegant and uncomplicated silhouettes, comfortable but tight-fitting clothes.
Lilly elected several natural raw materials, such as linen cambric, ramie, and cotton gauze. However, the brand did not lose sight of using eco-friendly material, such as mixed natural fibers and recycled yarns from PET bottles.
Among the most important details in the collection are knits with crochet finishes and jeans mosaics. To complement the looks, the designer suggests low round-heeled shoes with and flatforms that lavish comfort.
Skipping a season to give way to the launch of @relowofficial, with her sister Renata Sarti in charge, @lillysarti returns to SPFW with a collection driven by introspection. Divided into three different parts (since last summer, the stylist has been choosing to separate each season into capsules), the collection conveys the moment of perceiving who we are, the time when we try to make sense of our past, until it reaches the point in our evolutionary process when we realize it will not always be possible to fully comprehend the reality around us. “We’re looking outwards, while we should be looking inwards,” says the stylist. The uncomplicated elegance of the brand comes even more down to earth, tailored made for women who will not spend the post-vaccine time in their sweatshirts, but who wish to move forward comfortably and at ease. Now celebrating its 15th anniversary, it still is seen as a business success even in the midst of the pandemic: Lilly has just opened another store in São Paulo, at the Iguatemi Shopping Mall, and has launched a furniture collection in partnership with Breton (via @viviansotocorno)
On Instagram from Hapers Bazar
The sisters @lillysarti and @renatasarti close the first day of #SPFWN51 with a collection for @lillysartibrand that plunges into the common universe of the brand: the esoteric. Easy pieces, but with complex finishes unite the handmade crochets and embroidery to the tailoring that is so well-known and dear to the label’s consumers. Celebrating 15 years in the market, great hits such as the cuffed pants the ultrafeminine frills tie up the collection and, undoubtedly, become even greater objects of desire – By @rodrigoyaegashi #BazaarnoSPFW
https://fashionlabelbrasil.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Lilly-Sarti-SPWF-N51-04.jpg7001000abehttps://fashionlabelbrasil.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/flb-logo.pngabe2021-06-27 22:35:252021-08-24 15:22:172022 SPRING-SUMMER COLLECTION LILLY SARTI AT SPFW N51
Isabela Capeto presented the UFP (Unconventional Food Plants) collection at SPFW N51
Isabela Capeto, as always, celebrates handmade items, colors, and Brazilian products, and so she presented her new UFP collection at SPFW N51, on Thursday, the 24th.
The designer represented the UFPs (Unconventional Food Plants) in overalls and dresses, using fabrics such as cotton, linen, organdy and jeans. As to the color chart, we see green banana, bright red, viola lilac, clitoria blue, topinambur khaki, hibiscus rose, lily yellow and perilla wine.
The collection reveals layers of creative processes and promotes embroidery, stamps, lace, hand-made paintings, and the reuse of patches in the form of applications, “more like a way of looking at life, enjoying and reusing everything.”
“UFP is an unconventional collection, with both feet and hands on the ground along with a well-nourished mind.”
You can watch the show in full on SPFW’s Youtube channel.
On SPFW’s Instagram
Isabela Capeto has an innovative vision that seeks to go beyond the obvious, even when it comes to apparently trivial things. So, in this collection, the stylist turns to vegetable food plants –UFP– with the aim of “revealing layers of creative processes, which mix embroidery in beads, sequins and richelieu jewelry, embroidery, appliques, stamps, fabric paintings and crochets.”
The imaginary garden of @isabelacapeto makes way for jumpsuits and dresses you can dance in, made of fabrics such as cotton, linen, organdy and jeans. At the same time, the color chart arouses the eyes and the palate. Shades range from green banana, bright red, viola lilac, clitoria blue, topinambur khaki, hibiscus rose, lily yellow and perilla wine.
On Vogue’s Instagram
The pandemic has accelerated the process of redefining consumption, giving more value to special, handmade pieces that are properly made and have little circulation. @isabelacapeto has many reasons to celebrate – for 20 years, as the trends come and go, Isabela Capeto, as a native of Rio de Janeiro, has always been faithful to this particular style and work practice. “I never wanted to be cool. I was never a minimalist. I’ve always believed in the strength of my work and it’s nice to see more people searching for a desired piece, for individuality, for something that’s real,” she says.
For the 2021 collection (at her own pace, she has worked on one collection per year), she has elected UFPs as the theme, “more as a way of looking at life, enjoying and reusing whatever you can,” she says. Everything gains a new meaning in her hands: the patches are reinserted into new pieces in the form of appliques, accompanying embroidery, stamps, lace and hand paintings – during quarantine, even the fabric that was on the wall of Isabela’s room ended up in a jacket. This interchange does not happen by chance: genuine as she is, already the first collection of her life carried leather patches from a sofa that she had re-upholstered. Her creations, usually limited to six pieces, can already be found in Pinga, a store with many brands in São Paulo. (via @viviansotocorno;photos: @melisssadeoliveira; styling: @felipeveloso;beauty: @maxweber_art)
On The Instagram of Stylist Isabela Capeto
We now present our UFPs collection at São Paulo Fashion Week! I also share with you the 16 looks that were exhibited in the virtual edition of SPFW. This collection is very special to me because it came at a time when beautiful, essential, but discarded things of our land became a part of my life – whether on a plate or in the print of my clothes.
UFP stands for Unconventional Food Plants. In my studio, it’s the name of a collection that’s about using what is ours and delving deep into our roots. We present to you, UFPs
https://fashionlabelbrasil.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Isabela-Capeto_SPFW_3-Destaque.jpg7001000abehttps://fashionlabelbrasil.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/flb-logo.pngabe2021-06-27 21:41:062021-08-24 15:22:17UFP COLLECTION BY ISABELA CAPETO AT THE SPFW N51
The 2022 Summer collection depicts the art of the painter Frida Kahlo
Triya presented its 2022 Summer collection on the second day of the SPFW N51, on Thursday, June 24th.
The new Frida collection represents a dive into the life, work, and dreams of the Mexican painter Frida Kahlo, “a special collab, permeated with Frida Kahlo’s feminine strength.”
The collection expresses nature with giant or very small flowers, hearts, portraits, architecture, passions, and symbols of the artist’s history in energetic prints. Asymmetries and frills reinforce the brand’s identity.
The colors that were chosen for the collection are Frida Kahlo’s favorite, so in the palette, there is: yellow, pink, blue, sky, lilac, purple, mint green and peach orange.
“Typical Mexican motifs, feminine elements, and a mix and match that is already triya’s trademark. A cheerful, solar and free collection!”
You can watch the show in full on SPFW’s Youtube channel
In her Instagram, @astridfontenelle commented, “Do you like the beach? Do you like Frida Khalo? I do! That’s why I immediately accepted triya’s invitation to narrate their show! Frida’s words are a Manifesto to LOVE!”
“When I create a collection, I always keep the same intentions in mind: to build a story and create desire. Our product is born from the desire to escape to a relaxing place, which is not currently possible,” said the creative director of the brand, Isabela Frugiuele, in an interview with journalist Lelê Santhana from Elle.
“In her work, she talked a lot about the moment when she would be free. So, we made this kind of escape for her,” explains Isabela.
https://fashionlabelbrasil.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Triya-SPFW-51-1-1.jpg7001000abehttps://fashionlabelbrasil.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/flb-logo.pngabe2021-06-27 18:47:192021-08-24 15:22:17TRIYA PRESENTED ITS FRIDA COLLECTION AT SPFW N51
MODEM exhibited its collection on the second day of SPFW, bringing a clean, organic-clean aesthetic, tailoring being very present.
On Thursday, the 24th, MODEM presented the 2022 Spring-Summer collection in its sixth participation in SPFW, the second in digital format.
The collection expresses an art environment that rescues the urban and artsy essence of the brand, in organic-clean aesthetics, filled with details and color.
The color chart recreates a rainbow, with shades of pink, green and blue between earthy tones and the metallic details in the revival of the pieces.
The 2022 Spring-Summer collection promotes wide shapes, marked waist, mini lengths, and material overlays between light and structured fabrics, as well as highlights in different types of stitches and shapes elaborated in knitting.
“The collection started from the desire to bring even more comfort and versatility to the urban and sophisticated universe of the brand.”
SPFW Edition 51 takes place in digital format between June 23rd and 27th of 2021
By idealizing @modemstudio, the stylist has always aimed to create a brand with a strong fashion image, impeccable finish, and commercial appeal. At this time of the pandemic, he felt it was time to further reinforce the label’s DNA. Through research, allied with existing modeling, the stylist reinvented proportions to make them even more comfortable and timeless.
You can watch the show in full on SPFW’s Youtube channel
https://youtu.be/PUbmOnVsEgI
On Vogue’s Instagram
“MODEM presented its most colorful collection, in a palette that recreates a rainbow, designed for a post-pandemic summer. The designer André Boffano (@aboffano) traveled through his creative archives, evolving and improving features that govern the DNA of the label, and took a bet on what are comfortable, versatile and timeless pieces – which came to be even more valued in the fashion industry during the quarantine period. For the first time, Modem has male models in its presentation, reaffirming André’s desire not to hold on to genders. The fashion film was set at the cultural space OLHÃO Barra Funda, and its founder, Cléo Döbberthin, made a special participation in the video.” Posted Vogue Brazil on its Instagram profile. Photos: @bel.lafer and @cassiatabatini; Styling: @jvictorborges; Beauty: @casagrandegui
Modem in ELLE Magazine
In the first few minutes of conversation with Lelê Santhana of ELLE, André Boffano spills out right away: “This season, our color chart is almost like a rainbow.” Colors are not quite a trademark of Modem. During the six years since its creation, the label devoted itself to examining urban minimalism and had tailoring as the basis for its creations, with rare exceptions, relying mainly on neutral tones.
It turns out that now, amid the chaos, the possibility of seeing the brand’s aesthetic through a more vibrant lens was already a certainty for the stylist. “We always think about minimalism from a perspective of neutral colors, but there is a whole color chart behind them, and it is this rainbow that we need to see,” he says. Faced with a limited moment for the market, a change like this could sound risky for some brands, but in the case of Modem, the risk seems calculated and necessary.
While the color boosts the dichotomies set forth by the brand, the length of the skirts have shortened and tailoring begins to give way to matte details, breaking traces of rigidity and building a more fluid image. In fact, it is fluid to the point where Modem has included male models in its casting for the first time. “In the film, they’re almost about to change looks with women,” says André. According to the stylist, the intention is not to make the label unisex, but rather to prove the versatility that has always existed in his creations.
“During the pandemic, I picked up modeling from collections I had not seen in a while”
Although the novelties may seem like many, the main references for the 2022 summer collection were codes that already existed in file.
“When everything loses its meaning, there are two options: either we come back and put everything in place, or we stop. I chose to go back and put everything in place,” he concludes.
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